Hopinions: To blend or not to blend
Friday, October 30th, 2009From: Peter at BetterBeerBlog
At the Reunion 09 fundraiser/tapping party at Firehouse Brewery & Grill last night, I ran into some friends who had just gotten back from Firestone Walker Brewing Company. In addition to sampling the great beers they make down there, my friends Pete and Arie were able to sit in on the blending of the new Firestone Walker Quercus Alba XIII Anniversary beer. Not only did Pete and Arie sit in during the blending process, they actually submitted their own blends for consideration. I’m thinking to myself, “Wow, what an experience to have been a part of”.
Unsurprisingly, this week on Hopinions I wanted to talk about blending beers. The idea of blending beers to create the Firestone Walker Quercus Alba was inspired by the wine industry. As such, Firestone Walker usually invites over a group of winemakers to assist in the blending process. They each take measured amounts of barrel aged beer from various vintages, if you will, and come up with their own blends. The “winner”, as if there really could be any losers from this sort of thing, will then have their blend be the next Quercus Alba.
While the idea of blending beers may seem new and exciting, brewmasters have been blending beers for hundreds of years already. While I could be wrong, English brewers blended together a third “ale, beer and twopenny” to create the style of beer that would be the precursor to the porter style of beer. In Belgium, brewers were blending together young and old lambics to create gueuze. In a more modern example, Anheuser-Busch has been blending Budweiser for years to insure consistency from location to location. Closer to your neck of the woods, Russian River creates Beatification by blending as well..
I purchase two bottles of Quercus Alba XII last year with the intention of drinking one right away and aging the other. As a testament to my hoarding nature, both bottles are still intact. So is my single bottle of Beatification from Russian River, their spontaneously fermented lambic style/inspired beer.
Throwing this over to you, what do you think of blending beers? Do you have any personal favorites? Do you recall any blends that were absolutely horrible?
From: Mario at Brewed For Thought
Blending amazes me to be honest. I opened a bottle of the Firestone XI recently with some friends and the documentation that comes with the bottle is staggering. I wouldn’t even know where to start.
Recent examples I’ve tried include the cask that Lagunitas unleashed on us up here, their Bourbon Barrel-Aged Imperial Censored Brown Shugga Stout. This beer was as delicious as it sounds. The blend was as follows:
- 70% Imperial Stout aged 7 months in a bourbon barrel
- 20% Brown Shugga aged 6 months in a bourbon barrel
- 10% fresh Censored
While the idea of blending different brews together like this is definitely more difficult and rare, most barrel-aged beer you’ll find commercially bottled have been blended for consistency, the same way AB does it. In fact it was also at Lagunitas where I was part of a discussion regarding one of their other recent barrel-aged casks and a conscious decision to not blend the barrels as each batch had their own strong suits.
To be honest, a horrible beer doesn’t spring to mind when thinking of a blended brew. I am sure there are some out there, but none stick out.
You asked if I like the idea of blending, and I have to say I do. While one thing I like about small batch breweries is the excitement of finding one of their kegs that’s tasting excellent (and camping out on that keg until it’s gone), when it comes to these more expensive releases, I wouldn’t be too amused to find a bottle tasting off. The Deschutes Reserve Series comes to mind instantly, as the bottle states the percentage aged in barrels.
For large releases with any kind of barrel-aging, it has to be assumed the beer has been blended. A whisky barrel holds less than the equivalent of 17 cases of 750 mL bottles. Without blending I doubt some individual batches would even leave the brewery (and some may not).
I guess the question to you then, is do we want unblended barrels to hit the market? As a beer geek who hordes (which I do as well), could we handle the idea of dozens of batches of the same release floating around on stores shelves across the country? Personally, I don’t know if I could handle the decision making process holding a bottle of 2009 Bourbon County Stout Batch 79 and Batch 45 knowing that there would be at least 77 other batches out there and probably others on the same shelf. It’s like Verbal Kint said about shooting the devil in the back. “What if you miss?”
From: Peter at BetterBeerBlog
You bring up a great question. I don’t know what I would do if brewers started releasing single batch beers. Well, I take that back, I do know what I’d do: I’d just buy a bottle and hope for the best. At best, it would be cost prohibitive of me to try and pick up every single batch of unblended beer. At the worst, I might be taking on a fool’s errand trying to run around the country collecting a bottle from each batch. I’d imagine it’d be a never ending affair as the brewery can make more beer faster than you could go around collecting each bottle.
If I remember correctly, Allagash does list on their labels what batch the beer came from. I remember being at my local BevMo and looking at two bottles of Tripel from Allagash and noting how they came from the different batches. While this caught my interest, I eventually settled on a single purchase. The way I see it, if a brewery is going to go through all the trouble of releasing a beer for public consumption, it’s going to be a good beer. Great even if it was a barrel aged beer. What brewery in their right mind would release a beer knowing it was poor to begin with?
Barrel aged beers are beasts unto themselves. Even though the beer you put into each barrel is the same, each barrel has a personality of its own resulting in a slightly different beer barrel to barrel. This is exactly why brewers decided to blend beers in the first place. The brewers and their customers demanded consistency.
Yet, because of the surging popularity of blended beers, I see more and more breweries doing what they can to minimize the uncertainty of barrel aging. Take Avery Brewing Company out of Boulder, Colorado for example. I was there when they released their Sui Generis blended barrel aged beer. What struck me most about Avery was how much attention and resources they’re giving their barrels. They know the contents (critter wise) of each barrel. They chart how much character the barrels impart to the beers that are in them over time. Avery even has a full-time person who’s sole job is to watch over the barrels themselves. With such strict quality controls in place, the hope is to be able to create predictable barrel aged beers in the future.
In case you were interested, here’s how this beer broke down:
- 39% Cabernet Sauvignon barrels
- 35% Chardonnay barrels
- 13% Port barrels
- 13% Bourbon barrels
I bought a sixer of this beer for $8 per 12 oz bottle! This beer wasn’t cheap. All these types of beer aren’t cheap. Brewers aren’t stupid people. They realize that for a little more work they can charge super premium prices for product. Why wouldn’t you want to have a barrel aged beer? Yes, I realize I am greatly oversimplifying the barrel aged brewing process. But the greatest cost to barrel aging a beer isn’t even a consumable product, it’s time. Just ask your local whisky distiller.
To wrap things up on my end, is it an issue that brewers are starting to demystify barrel aging beers? To explain a little further, do you think that a brewery has taken all the fun out of barrel again once they’ve cataloged what’s inside of the barrel and how it performs? I know that at the end of the day, being able to predict the effects of a particular barrel on a beer will help increase a brewery’s production. I get that. At the same time, you no longer get the same Christmas morning feeling when opening a barrel of beer. Color me and adventurous but I still like a little bit of mystery with my barrel aged beers. Your thoughts?
From: Mario at Brewed For Thought
Briefly, when I brought up batches I was taking it to the extreme. I am certain those Batches of Allagash are a way for the brewer and the consumer to identify which specific blend is in a particular bottle.
It’s funny you chose this topic today because I happened to find myself at the Russian River Brewery to take a picture of Natalie Cilurzo for the upcoming Brewing News. It only seemed appropriate that I bring this up with Vinnie Cilurzo, who is, as you and I are quite aware, head brewer/barrel-wrangler of Russian River Brewing.
He explained the process of blending a batch of Supplication as an example. In this case, the barrels that are ready are emptied into the fermenter, all of them. While he has monitored each barrel, and each barrel has its own character, he says the idea of a reserve line of the best barrels might be tempting but would ultimately take away from the final blended product. If a certain barrel fails to meet his standards he would pour it out.
This fermenter full of beer would be left alone for a few days in order to allow the beer to recover from the shock of the transfer as well as be cooled to a serving temperature. With bottle and keg aging effects in mind, this beer is then blended with Perdition and other non-sour beers to bring the beer to the final mix.
One thing that became apparent during our discussion was that barrel-aging is still an art and far from a science. A perfect example were a pair of barrels that caught my eye. Each barrel had the word “pumpkin” scribbled on with chalk. These batches were destined for the Elysian Pumpkin Festival, but Vinnie felt the barrels were still too “sick” with pediococcus and were left to age in the barrels. Despite having plenty of evidence as to how a beer should react to the carefully maintained conditions, the results can and do vary.
If you ask me (and you did) I still think most barrel-aged beers are like Christmas day. Even having tasted a sample out of one of the barrels of Supplication, I still have no idea what’s in the other 39 barrels and how they will taste. Vinnie might know, but I certainly can’t look at a piece of paper and say the beer has been ruined for me. Although, I may start using that as an excuse to scam free beer from a brewery. They all seem to know the mouse in a bottle trick.
NOTE: The image used above was provided by Mario from Brewed for Thought.
Pete Slosberg, founder of Pete’s Wicked Ale, will be hosting the launch party for
Reno, NV (September 2009)—As Reno gears up to host the first ever international canned beer competition, appropriately named CANFEST, the competition is unfolding into an event complete with enticing festivities for attendees, more than 25 breweries from all around the globe, and great ticket/room packages.
Way back in the 15th century, a crazy Italian had the idea that if he sailed far enough west, he would eventually end up east. The crazy Italian, of course, was Christopher Columbus and the whole reason he wanted to go west was to get to the spice routes of the east. This was especially ballsy since people at the time thought the world was still flat.







