Kölsch tasting with Brewed for Thought
Tuesday, September 16th, 2008A few weeks ago, Sammy and I were in Windsor for the long weekend. While up there, I made plans to meet up with Mario from Brewed for Thought to hang out and drink some beers. I initially wanted to do a pub crawl of downtown Santa Rosa with one of the “locals” but instead, we were treated to a very chill, and relaxing kölsch tasting at Mario’s place.
While I initially wondered why Mario decided to do a kölsch tasting, all those thoughts burned off along with the warm Santa Rosa afternoon. Kölschs ended being the best thing to drink that afternoon after all.
Well, what is a kölsch anyway? According to the BJCP style guidelines, a kölsch is:
Kölsch is an appellation protected by the Kölsch Konvention, and is restricted to the 20 or so breweries in and around Cologne (Köln). The Konvention simply defines the beer as a “light, highly attenuated, hop-accentuated, clear top-fermenting Vollbier.”
Expanded further, it is one of the lightest ales you will ever have, when brewed correctly. The strength of the kölsch style isn’t that it’s a big beer, ham-fisted in all ways. Instead, a good kölsch is all about subtlties. The aroma should be light with only the slightest of hint of fruity esters. This is a brilliantly clear beer, pale to light gold in color with a white head. The flavors should showcase a soft, fully attenuated malt characteristic with very, very slight fruit characteristics. This is a balanced beer in which neither the malt nor hops dominate. The beer should finish smooth and crisp, medium-light in body and medium/medium-high in carbonation. If this beer sounds like a lager, it often gets confused for one.
Now that I’ve familiarized you with the kölsch style of beer, let’s get with the three beers in review.
Reissdorf Kölsch, 4.80% ABV
According to the BJCP Guidelines for this style, Reissdorf is a classic example of a beer brewed in this style. In the past, I would’ve just overlooked lager-looking beers like this and moved onto more robust ales. Since passing my BJCP test, I have become more open to trying all the different kinds of beer.
This beer pours a brilliantly clear, light gold with white head. The aroma is clean with subtle amounts of sweet malt, spicy hop and fruit esters. Despite the subtlety of the aroma, this is a flavorful beer. I can taste the pils malt sweetness and a slight fruit character that reminds me of pear with a moderate level of hop flavor and bitterness with a slightly dry finish. This is a medium-low bodied beer with a medium-high level of carbonation that lends this beer and spritzy and effervescent quality.
Alaskan Summer Ale, 5.3% ABV
I’ve actually already had this beer. In fact, I’ve featured it in one of my beer and food pairing menus. As it is with those events, I never have enough time to do a formal tasting while planning the menu. This particular pairing was well received.
The Alaskan Summer Ale pours out a crystal clear gold with white head. The aroma is sweet malt, spicy hop and some fruit esters; very similar to the Reissdorf. The flavor is more of the same. I am able to taste the sweetness of the pils malt and flavor and bitterness of both the European and American hops. This beer is medium/medium-low in body with medium-high/high level of carbonation that is tingly on the tongue and effervescent overall.
While this beer’s description may echo the Reissdorf, rest assured they are not the same beer. Both beers have a very similar flavor profile. By contrast, the Alaskan is just more malt flavor and aroma, has more hop characteristics and more fruity esters. Where the Reissdorf was all restraint and subtleties, the Alaskan “let’s it hair down”. Of course, coming from an American brewery, more of everything is to be expected, even from a style based on subtleties. Not a bad beer by any stretch of the imagination, in fact it’s one of my new favorites.
Drakes Blonde Ale, 4.8% ABV
I am a little perplexed why Mario included this into the kölsch tasting. The Blonde Ale is a category unto itself according to the BJCP style guidelines. Yet, according to Drakes website, this beer is brewed as a kölsch-style ale. Go figure. Working in marketing, I could never understand why you’d want to mis-label something.
Anyway, this beer pours out clear, a slightly pale gold in color with a white head. The aroma smells a bit off with this beer. All the kölsch characteristics are there but there is a minerally aroma that permeates and even dominates the rest. This continues well into the flavor. The blonde is medium-low in body but high in carbonation. Really high. That’s when it hits me that the off-flavor I’m tasting is the carbonation. This beer is overly carbonated and I can’t help but think I’m drinking carbonated water. I’ve never had this beer prior so I have nothing to compare against.
As my initial exposure to Drakes line of beers, it’s a disappointment. Still, I won’t let one bum beer stop me from sampling more. I’m hoping it’s an isolated case but we’ll see.
Big thanks to Mario for inviting me over and letting me sit in on this tasting. While it’s very nice to be able to taste a range of beers, I find that you really understand the what a beer style is supposed to be when you do a horizontal tasting like this and compare the same style beers as brewed by different companies. I think I’ll be doing more of these for different styles myself.
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